Egg Incubation Questions

[Todd Stockwell]

I have some questions about egg incubation from some observations of captive and wild egg incubation situations I’ve seen. I’ve been talking off-list about this subject with a couple of keepers and it’s time to ask for the advice of the larger group. 1) Substrate Plain Vermiculite and now increasingly Perlite (or a mix of the two) have been a standard and successful substrate for many turtle eggs over the years. Now I am hearing of more keepers adding peat to the substrate for anti-fungal properties and to add a little acidity to help break down the egg shell to help with hatchling emergence. I have read in Russ Gurley’s new turtle book that he strongly believes in adding the organic matter for most turtle species. In my own experience with adding peat moss to my incubation substrate, it seemed to compost and make somewhat of a mess, especially since I am having trouble with insect infestations in my incubator. I’m now sure I kept that substrate too wet, though. I’m wondering if those adding peat are adding long fiber peat moss or finely shredded peat? We have one member who has had around two dozen very vigorous, perfectly formed (no scute deformities) dbt hatchlings incubate and emerge on their own from the permanent sand pit of the female’s set up. The temperature of the turtle room is a constant 80 degrees year around. I am guessing the pure sand substrate stays relatively dry. I understand that a couple of keepers believe too wet of a substrate contributes to scute deformities, so I am wondering how a dry, deep nest in an artificial sand pit compares to more “standard” captive incubation methods. It seems to be working well in at least this one case. When we visited the Terrapin Institute in Maryland last month and saw MW’s nesting beaches, they appeared to be “pure” sand beaches. Encroachment of grasses or other plants was reported to often damage eggs in nests. Is it an accurate assumption that most wild terrapin eggs hatch in sand with virtually no organic matter mixed in? The great thing is that we know of many keepers successfully hatching dbts in a range of substrates and set ups, so I don’t want to imply I’m expecting there to be one “right” way to incubate dbt eggs. I’m just looking for some conversation amongst those with the experience to continue to build on our base of practical captive breeding knowledge. Comments, thoughts, suggestions? 2) To Cover or Not to Cover? The sand pit incubation raises a second question regarding covering or not covering eggs in the incubator. Does it matter one way or the other if the eggs are only half-buried in the substrate or if they are covered by a layer of substrate (or a moist paper towel)? Is the standard practice to bury eggs only half-way so that the eggs can be visually checked, or are there other reasons for only partially burying them? I hadn’t thought about it much before, but I now recall that a number of large-scale breeders of turtles that I’ve had a chance to visit or see in photos, use clear plastic containers shelved in rooms where ambient room light can shine on the clear plastic containers. Is moderate light exposure of any concern to developing turtle eggs? 3) Air Exchange As I mentioned above, I am having trouble with insect infestations getting into my incubating eggs. How much air exchange do developing eggs really need? Is it possible to use plastic containers with no air holes in them and the lids set in place to try to keep out all possible insect invaders if the lids are occasionally lifted? Weekly? Monthly? Or would it be better to try to use a fine mesh barrier (pantyhose?) over each container or maybe over any openings of the insulated incubator box to try keep out insects so that each container can have a couple of small air holes in it? Thanks in advance for all input. Todd Do you Yahoo!?Friends. Fun. Try the all-new Yahoo! Messenger

[Diamondback Terrapin World]

Hi Todd, I have tried several different incubation types. I have incubated them in air tight rubber-maid containers and with lids off. I didn’t notice a difference in the hatchlings. I with Havo-Bators you can’t incubate them with lids off because it tends to try out the eggs. Since you have had problems with bugs I would keep them air tight. I have incubated eggs in a Havo-Bator with small holes and they hatched out fine. I personally like using the a high humidity incubator and using less water in the substrate. I tried incubating some eggs last year in perlite with no water, they hatched fine but the eggs did indent. So far this year none of the eggs this year have indented and I am using 1 tablespoon per cup of perlite. I have always incubated my eggs buried half way. As for hatchlings getting out of the eggs. I have only had a few case of the eggs shell drying out and the hatchling have problem getting out of the egg. They were with Havo-Bators and I had put a smaller amount of water in those container than I normally did. Don’t get me wrong I think Havo-Bators are good incubators, but there is a little bit more to think about when it comes to water in the substrate. Once you have used them for a couple of years you know easily how much water the substrate needs. I think with my incubator I could use pure sand as a substrate and I think the eggs would be OK. For me if it isn’t broke don’t fix it. Thanks Jonathan http://www.diamondbackterrapin.com — Todd Stockwell

[DGGrekoff@aol.com]

In a message dated 6/12/2004 10:23:52 AM Pacific Standard Time, oxdrover2002@… writes: This is true for hard shelled eggs (like torts eand muds) but not needed for soft eggs like terrapins, painteds, boxies or woods. Dimitri

[Diamondback Terrapin World]

Hi Everyone, I have a Havo-Bator that I am not using any more. I only used it for one season. Now I am using a larger incubation system and I don’t need the Havo-Bator any more. I am selling it for $29 and $10 for shipping. Please e-mail me off the group if you are interested. Thanks Jonathan jonathan@… =====

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