Re: Digest Number 63
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I see many excellent points in reguards to salinity and babies. I have seen many populations that were more than a mile from any fresh water other than rain water. As put earlier they do not roam open oceans or even open bays. Hatchlings do not fair well in Interesting, some may be getting the idea but we will just watch for now. I have not seen anything published on this behavior, but Jeff Lovich and Ernst did publish some nice lab studies on salinity tolerences. As far as clean water and filtration, I have had some luck with both Graptemys andd Malaclemys in a 100-220gal tanks indoors with controlled light cycles, a uv sterilizer, and about 2500 gal/hour of filtration and circulation. With a back ground and degree dealing directly with water chemistry and microbiology, I still have some problems with pathogens and other such anomalies. All I can do is learn from experience and exchange info with others to get a little better. This is one of the main reasons I am more likely to release my yearlings as opposed to dumping them off in the hands of the unexperienced. Scott — diamondbackterrapins@egroups.com wrote: ———————————————————————— ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ ————————————————————————– ________________________________________________________________________ ________________________________________________________________________ === message truncated === __________________________________________________ Do You Yahoo!? Yahoo! Shopping – Thousands of Stores. Millions of Products. http://shopping.yahoo.com/
Scott; What type of filtration are you using indoors to get 2,500 gal/hour filtration? What size and number of pumps? I’m planning on setting up a larger (over 100 gal) indoor setup and am trying to decide how to go about it. I have a 350 gph external canister Magnum 350 and a 250 gph internal Eheim on a 75 gallon tank now with maps and cooters. Even with some powerheads and power sponge filters, it seems to just keep up so I know I need greater filtration. Todd Scott Howard wrote:
Todd, Have you ever considered a wet-dry trickle filter? Those work great! We used to have one filtering 2 60gal. tanks in the pet store I used to work in. One of the tanks was always stocked with koi while the other was stocked with aquatic turtles. We never had a problem with water quality or diseases. We even had dbts in there every so often without incident! It would appear that maintenance would be easier on a single trickle filter rather than several canister types. BTW, how did you and Rick gain access to the Feb. 2001 of Reptiles so soon? All I could find was the Jan. issue. Cheers, Chun — In diamondbackterrapins@egroups.com, Todd Stockwell
The Feb 2001 issue came in the mail last week. The cover story is Tree Boas. Do the newstand issues have the same date on them as the subscriptions? Was the wet-dry tickle filter a single commercial unit or made up from parts or ….??? I have That Pet Place’s Pet Book catalogue which shows most of the commercially available filters and I see some trickle filters for generally twice what the same flow rate canister would cost. But if it would do the job, it would save on water changes and labor. Chun-Ming Chew wrote:
We trade them turtles, and those on the barter system get first dibs on the new mags! 🙂 Todd says he’s got one almost like the photo!!!! -Rick Chun-Ming Chew wrote:
Todd, Yes, newstand issues are dated the same. The Jan. issue of Reptiles had wood turtles on their cover. Trickle filters are marketed as filters only or package deals (filter, pump, hoses, etc.). They are not cheap but are the best biological filter next to fluidized beds and not as problematic. When compared to canisters, you’re really comparing apples and oranges. Canisters are mainly efficient at mechanical and chemical filtration (i.e. solid wastes, odors and dyes) with limited biological capability (toxic ammonia, nitrites and nitrates). With trickle filters, you’re getting a ton of biological filtration plus the capacity for mechanical and chemical filtration as well. They have considerably more surface area and higher concentrations of oxygen that enable nitrifying bacteria to breakdown ammonia and nitrites more effectively. Comparing flow rates is important as long as the biological capacity is the same. Otherwise, higher performing canister filters may not even do half as good of a job in filtering if their biological capacity is severely restricted. Trickle filter use in sensitive saltwater fish and reef tanks seem to attest to their efficiency, I believe. In any event, biological filtration should always be prioritized above mechanical and chemical filtration since high levels of ammonia and nitrite are usually the causative agents in lowering a turtle’s immunity system. Mechanical and chemical filtration do little for the health of a turtle but are mostly for aesthetics. Few aquarium keepers can steer away from visions of crystal clear, odorless tanks that seem to imply cleanliness and health… If I’m not mistken, I believe Scott has a trickle filter in his system. Happy shopping, Chun — In diamondbackterrapins@egroups.com, Todd Stockwell
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