Shell Haze Treatments
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Hello, our two boys are developing a case of shell haze. I’m pretty sure it’s not shell rot because the shell is intact, just a lighter shade around the back region of their shells. I have a filter that is double the needed power for their tank and I’m changing 50% of the water every week, so it hasn’t been getting any worse. But is there a way to get rid of the discolored scutes? Or will they work themselves out in time? Could it be their diet? They eat reptomin food sticks and occasionally some baby shrimp. I thought I remember reading on Jonathan’s website about dry-docking them for 24 hours to remove shell rot affected scutes, but what should I do to get their shells back to full health? Please advise. Thanks, Andy
Hi Andy ummmm….I’ve faced this problem for some of my terrapins. The green one “Fungtopic Cream” in this link or any other similar medicine (Miconazole Nitrate 2% w/w) may help in early stage of shell haze. http://img25.imageshack.us/img25/8936/dsc00036zz2.jpg Dry the DBT and put this cream in the affected area of scutes, you may find improvement after a week. There are some theories related to the reasons of shell haze. One is fungus and one is mineral deposit. I’ve tried to keep my terrapins in different temperature in this winter (air temperature around 15 degree in HK). Most of the DBT I kept in warm area, around 28 degree, with water and dry area provided developed different level of shell haze problem. (5 out of 6 were affected). Another group (11 DBTs) I kept in similar setting and the only different is no heating source provided, ALL of them have problem free from shell haze. This is the reason why I believed the shell haze problem is caused by fungus instead of mineral deposit. To be honest, it take long time to full heal if you just apply the medicine and dry the DBT although it can avoid to hurt your little guy during removing the affected scutes. In some case, I found the scute can be completely heal after the affected scute fall off naturally even you just keep them in brackish water to stop the affected area spread over. But it even take longer time for one to two years! Anyways, I hope some more choices were provided for you to deal with the issue. Thanks Gourry To: diamondbackterrapins@yahoogroups.comFrom: andydavis857@…Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 16:56:48 +0000Subject: [diamondbackterrapins] Shell Haze Treatments Hello, our two boys are developing a case of shell haze. I’m pretty sure it’s not shell rot because the shell is intact, just a lighter shade around the back region of their shells. I have a filter that is double the needed power for their tank and I’m changing 50% of the water every week, so it hasn’t been getting any worse. But is there a way to get rid of the discolored scutes? Or will they work themselves out in time? Could it be their diet? They eat reptomin food sticks and occasionally some baby shrimp.I thought I remember reading on Jonathan’s website about dry-docking them for 24 hours to remove shell rot affected scutes, but what should I do to get their shells back to full health? Please advise.Thanks, Andy
Hi All I suddenly discovered the link in previous e-mail is wrong. The Fungtopic cream should be this one. http://i348.photobucket.com/albums/q342/gourrychan/Forum/Medical.jpg Thanks Gourry To: diamondbackterrapins@yahoogroups.comFrom: gourrychan@…Date: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 17:50:34 +0000Subject: RE: [diamondbackterrapins] Shell Haze Treatments Hi Andyummmm….I’ve faced this problem for some of my terrapins. The green one “Fungtopic Cream” in this link or any other similar medicine (Miconazole Nitrate 2% w/w) may help in early stage of shell haze. http://img25. imageshack. us/img25/ 8936/dsc00036zz2 .jpg Dry the DBT and put this cream in the affected area of scutes, you may find improvement after a week. There are some theories related to the reasons of shell haze. One is fungus and one is mineral deposit. I’ve tried to keep my terrapins in different temperature in this winter (air temperature around 15 degree in HK). Most of the DBT I kept in warm area, around 28 degree, with water and dry area provided developed different level of shell haze problem. (5 out of 6 were affected). Another group (11 DBTs) I kept in similar setting and the only different is no heating source provided, ALL of them have problem free from shell haze. This is the reason why I believed the shell haze problem is caused by fungus instead of mineral deposit. To be honest, it take long time to full heal if you just apply the medicine and dry the DBT although it can avoid to hurt your little guy during removing the affected scutes. In some case, I found the scute can be completely heal after the affected scute fall off naturally even you just keep them in brackish water to stop the affected area spread over. But it even take longer time for one to two years! Anyways, I hope some more choices were provided for you to deal with the issue.ThanksGourry To: diamondbackterrapin s@yahoogroups. comFrom: andydavis857@ yahoo.comDate: Tue, 3 Feb 2009 16:56:48 +0000Subject: [diamondbackterrapi ns] Shell Haze Treatments Hello, our two boys are developing a case of shell haze. I’m pretty sure it’s not shell rot because the shell is intact, just a lighter shade around the back region of their shells. I have a filter that is double the needed power for their tank and I’m changing 50% of the water every week, so it hasn’t been getting any worse. But is there a way to get rid of the discolored scutes? Or will they work themselves out in time? Could it be their diet? They eat reptomin food sticks and occasionally some baby shrimp.I thought I remember reading on Jonathan’s website about dry-docking them for 24 hours to remove shell rot affected scutes, but what should I do to get their shells back to full health? Please advise.Thanks, Andy
Gourry,Interesting observations. I have two 2007 hatchlings that have been together for over a year. Fed the same food, same tank and all that. One has no shell haze and the other has several spots. The one that does is the one the tends to bask much more and thus, also had some algae patches on top of what turned out to be the shell haze locations. When I cleaned off the algae with a soft toothbrush, I noticed the shell haze. At first I thought I might have scrubbed too hard or something! It’s been about 8 months and it hasn’t spread…I’m just waiting for him to have his first shed. I can see the new scute underneath the hazed one when it’s wet and can tell the concentric pattern is there. I will try the fungus med next time….certainly can’t hurt.-John— On Tue, 2/3/09, GOURRY CHAN
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